Edward Lear's Diaries

My 50^th birthday. Rose at 4.20: ― off by 5.15.

Long winding paths through olive groves: then dips & struggles with quite wild places, stuffed with all sorts of underwood, the old olives growing tangly all about. Frogs there were also, & rushes. A man passing, & asked the way to Sparterò ― said ― “διατί ἐπιθυμεῖς νὰ πηγαίνης ᾽ς το χώρι μου;¹ I shall not tell you.” ―― Small miserable collection of huts are Nicori, Palaiocori, & Βαστάτινα, & I see no fun in going back by them: so having drawn the Northern distance above the last village but one ― Dragolenà, & great groups of vast olives higher up ―― we arrived at Σπαρτηρῖο, 20 little houses scattered here & there; κατσικιές,² & rayther wretched: ― the people only half polite. Nevertheless there is superb scenery all about the place. We took a boy to guide us to Ἅ. Προκόπιος ― (the best place to pass the rest of the day in,) ―― ever winding paths, thro’ thickets, a few scared cattle. A church (in a wilderness,) & thus by 10 ― or 10.30 ― reached the groves of the Holy Προκόπιος. Lunched & drew in the wide grove till 1: nothing but a  very elaborate study of this wood ― even if that, ― could convey an idea of this beautiful place: ― the quiet, warmth, & semishade are delightful. The Elements ― trees, clouds, &c. ― silence ― ὃλη ἡ φύσις δηλαδῆ³ ― seem to have far more part with me or I with them, than mankind. After death perhaps I shall be a tree ― a cloud ― a cabbage ― or silence in the next world: but most possibly an ass. In these Προκόπιαν holy glades are but 3 very manifold colors, ― the warm pale green of the floor ― with long shades: ― the gray uniform freckly shimmer of the roof: & the dark brown gray of the supporting pillar trunx. At 1, or 1.30 ― into the Monastery, & drew till 3 ― awfully tortured by fleas, & obliged to stand in the sun all the time. As soon as I got to the sea I bathed ― killing 11 fleas first. At 6. Reached the Casa [Curì]: paid Dimitri 2 dollars []⁴ a shilling⁵ for his days work ― he merits it well.

Sate in the gallery with Dr. & Mrs. S. till dinner ― Dr. Samuello also ― 7.30 dinner ― alquanto [troppo]⁶, & I was horribly bored by a flea!

Bed by 10.15.

Kindly good folk[.]

X3

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. Why do you want to go to my village? (NB). [↩]
2. Goats (NB). [↩]
3. All of nature, that is (NB). [↩]
4. A blotted word. [↩]
5. Continues in the previous page, for 11 May. [↩]
6. The second Italian word is partly blotted; the expression means: “Very much too much.” [↩]

Rose at 5.30. 6.30 out with G., & drew by the Ποταμὸς bridge. (Calabrians have a boat here, ― a company sent by Primo Pignatelli to search for Liquorice root.[)] Returning at 8.30 ― met Dr. Sansoni, & back with him to Ἅγιος Νάσσος ποῦ ἥτον ἐφολῆ,¹ & a giving away of boiled wheat & sweetmeats, some to us. Then we went to a higher point, where I drew again ― for the views are lovely. Finally ― we returned at 11.15. At 12 ― Colazione, at the end of the long Gallery, Sig. & Sig.ra Sansoni & I: pleasant & rational. The lovely distance recalls many far away days. ― At 1. drew a “femmina,” in Λευκίμμη costume. Ἑφανήθη² also, the Doctor’s mother; [] a pleasant old lady, [fever] suffering. After wh. ― I returned & slept till 3.30.

At 4 ― walked to the Gallery, & drew [ezidionety]³ till after sunset ―: the long brim of mountains, & 2ndly the northern view of S. Salvador &c. ―. ― Coversation for ½ an hour ― poi dinner. I wish they would not bring out various wines ― as one or two are enough: howbeit tonight there was port ― beyond all belief execrable & wholly undrinkable ― Which I said ― & did not try to drink it. These are warmhearted folk.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. Agios Nassos (St. Athanasius) where there was a feast (NB). [↩]
2. Came (NB). [↩]
3. This, or “ezidiomty,” is the word Lear wrote: it is not Italian or Greek. [↩]

Slept well, yet I think some heaviness proceeds from the air. At 5.30 ― (why do they put cinnamon in their coffe? ―) G. & I & Dimitri ― a well-behaved obliging χωριάτης¹ ― went out. Lovely bits of green sward or fern ― with beautiful olives ― characteristic bits of Lefchimo scenery, we passed, ―― & so reached the cypress tuffy hill of Ἄγιος Ταξιάρχης, by 7, or 6.30: where I drew 3 or 4 times. The “cypress tree” is here smisuratamente² existing: & thousands of tiny little cypress treelets pick up everywhere. At 9.30 we went “cross country” ― to Ἄ. Νικόλα, where we lunched ― but Χωρὶς νερὸ.³ So I remain under the shade of a giant Εχινάρι a Lentish tree. There is everywhere a flood of gold & green & blue. This, & the breeze, blowing freshly now & then, remind me of days in many lands before that knowledge came which tells us we have so little, & so much conjecture. On Swiss, & Como hills in 1837 ― in the first years of Rome & Amalfi life /38,/9 ― the long Civitella sojourns ― 1839-40 ―  Abruzzo 43-44 ― Sicily & Greece,ˇ[47] 48/49. ― I do not now suppose that kind of happiness can ever come back but by unexpected & unsought snatches; so I do not strive after it, nor mourn that I cannot have it. Only now & then, the whole long stream of bright ˇ[past] life glitters before me as it was in a distant valley, & I can seem to mark all its windings & shallows, & the lights & shadows on its far distant shores. Just now the lilac range of Albanian mountains with the few pale but defined clouds above, the blue sky & far deeper blue sea: the long ― almost blue plain of [distant] Ilias, & the still dark heavy full cypresses close by  ― all bring back old memories. ― (What excessive contrast there is between the bloo-blooness of the sea & lilac hills, & the rich raw Sienna green of those Cypresses! ―) afterwards ― drew twice, & then to the hill of Ἀνάλειψις, & drew till 6: after which fogs begin & out of door life is fever. This Ἀνάλειψις view is the most pleasing hereabouts, & were there well-drawn figures, it would be beautiful, ― at sunset especially ― when the mountains, by means of many detail=shadows, lose much of their wall-like form.

“Home” at 6.20; Ἔφθασε ὁ Ιἀτρὸς:⁴ to whom, & the [sost] ιἀτρόσ,⁵ ― showed all my sketches. Dr. Samuello theological, (οὐ ἂντι-theological)⁶ discussions were a wee-violent. The small boy Spiro’s queer ways were taking & amusing. It seems I stay here tomorrow ― en famille: ― Sparterò on Monday. Clomò Tuesday.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. Peasant (NB). [↩]
2. Immeasurably, excessively. [↩]
3. Without water (NB). [↩]
4. The Doctor came (NB). [↩]
5. Continues in the previous page, for 9 May. [↩]
6. Not anti-theological (NB). [↩]

Slept well. No fleas. G. is in anteroom. Rose at 4.30 coffee. Off 5.30 ― with G. & a guide, Dimitri. Heavy mist on all places ― plain & hills: wild paths, & flat desert-like spots: sandy walk by seaside.

Inland to S. Procopius ― a picturesque little monastery. beautiful olives. Hills near Sea, Capo Bianco[.] Solitary. Goats & dogs ― capo bianco ― drew. Mantis. fine ravine. ― At monastery of Ἀκροδείλιον by 9.30. Wonderful grove of Cypresses: drew a good deal: lovely day. Lunch. & drew ―. At 2 ― after various sketches began to go homeward. Walked down the hill, []¹. By beautiful []² ― to Ἄ Προκόπιος ― a wonderfully pretty specimen of rural Gk. Monastery. To the sea thence, & bathed, & so by sand & hilly undulations ― back to Μελίχια to the Casa Κυροῦ by 6. This house & family reminds me of Abruzzi days. Dr. Samuelli dined, & nothing could be more pleasant than the whole matter ― save that they asked me to eat too much.

However I was too tired to be as polite as I ought to be. Bed at 9.30. The Dr. goes to town tomorrow.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. Several words have been struck out. [↩]
2. Unreadable place name. [↩]

Fine day. Rose at 4.30. Rushed off by 6.20[.]

Light carriage. Picked up the Fosters, ― I to pay my arranged 4 dollars they 2. Very clear & lovely weather, walked on ― horses resting, ― at Strongili. On to 19^th mile, & lunched very pleasantly close to Ἄγια Τριάδα. At Lefchimo by 1. Dr. & Mrs. Sansone kindly folk. Coffee. Walked with them to the “Ποταμὸς.[”] At 3.30 took leave of the F.’s & went to Ἄ. Nicόλο, & Ἄ. Ἀνάλειψις ― but could not draw.

Returned: washed: waited: wrote. The Doctor came at times & talked. At 7.30 supper befell ― & very pleasant too & good withal, Maccaroni, Triglie, eggs ― Παλαμιδα¹ &c. Small only boy ― 15 months old. Under Doctor ― Samuello ― intelligent: studied in Paris & London. At 9, begged to go to bed, which was (apparently) clean.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. Bonito (NB), a kind of tuna. [↩]

Rose at 6. ―

Got 25£ from Taylor. Breakfast with the 2 Fosters at 9. ―

at 11.30. drove with them to Κυνοπιάστες, ― but Villetta was not at home. (I asked Luard to dine ― first, & left a note for G. with the Παραμυθιόττι.) We drove also to Cupido’s fountn. Home by 1.30, & found G. had not had the letter given him by the Παρα= but had gone out. So I fumed & worried till 4.30. when he came in, & said he could dine L. & me at 8 ― Whereat ― at 5 ―  I went out ― walking with the Fosters ―― wonderful sky ― & no end of rainbows: ― [at ]¹ .15 came Luard. At 10. bed.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. Blotted. [↩]

Fine till 11 ― we walked about, G. smoking. This place, in an unfrequented spot off the road, is not good to dwell in.

At 4.30 ― we packed ― by 5.30 Spiro Assoniti was engaged to find 2 horses ― whereat we packed, & were off by 6. ― Certainly a beautiful nogetable valley ― & full of fine bits: ― but ill to dwell in. I think I shall go to Lefchimo as soon as possible. ― We were in Corfû by 9.50 ― at my door. ―

2 ordinary papers: ― 1 Sat., 1 Atheneum from Miss G. who has kindly sent it doubtless from its being so full of notics [sic] about poor [Bush]. One letter, very nice , from C. Fortescue. George, as if he had had no trouble at all ― made a good lunch for me at 11 ― after wh. I slept till 5. Meanwhile, Foster ― of Roman memory ― had called ― he & Mrs. F. are at Turnock’s. To whom I wrote, & then I went to bed.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

Rose at 5 ― a very sleepless & comfortless night: dogs barking ― &c. &c.

Off with G. & Spiro Assoniti ― a cloudy threatening sky. ― Across the thin woods ― wonderful scenes of long-armed light-foliaged trees ― like Calabria in 1847. But it soon poured down torrents of rain ― also hail & thunders, & [we stood up] ¼  of an hour, ― but it soon [staid],¹ & we walked up to Vauriatadi, apparently a dreary village, & the people thereof gloomy & odious ― 2 or 3 gave directions as to A. Παυλιάνα,² but followed us ― a difficult track, & one, so slushy & steep I could hardly manage. However ― at the top is the village, & Mr. Charlton’s house, a charming [place], of neatness ― roses & gardens, & a γραμματικὸς:³ who soon gave me some coffee & eggs ― & offered dinner later. Whereby I drew 3 or 4 times ― but it was cold: & at 12.30 had eggs & wine: ― 3 little children, 3^d apiece, but I wrote a note to Mr. C. promising him a drawing. The view over Lefchimo to Stαξος is beautiful. At 2.30 ― we went away ― a morning of good luck: ― & came down by Κ. Παυλιάνα⁴ to a high road: goats & sheep! ― & so ― clouds again gathering ― to Strongili  about 5 or not so late.

Then it rained a good lot. ― And afterwards I drew from the window.

Now it is 6 & fine again. Boles is bad, & all wrong to day.

After all this, did the accounts with Giorgio.

Feverish, & unwell ― nervous to a horrid degree. No sleep at all.

And (at 11.45.) I fancied I heard steps, & a trying of the door: ― which presently turned out a fact by a violent shake & force of the outer door ― which however held ― & the ladri⁵ ran down the steps. ― So, considering the bad air, & the affair at [Πισκοπιανῆ] ― & my being so unwell, I αποφασισα⁶ to go. George, who awoke also, rose ― & we did not go to rest again.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. Blotted. [↩]
2. Ano Pavliana (Upper Pavliana), a village (NB). [↩]
3. Secretary (male) (NB). [↩]
4. Κάτω Παυλιάνα, i.e. Lower Pavliana (NB). [↩]
5. Thieves. [↩]
6. Decided (NB). [↩]

Particular lovely, all day.

Slept vastly better ― not to say well: & rose a little before 5 ― Plain coffee & bread the order of the day: & George & I were off before 6. A pleasant shadeful walk ― & assuredly the olives are wonderful, the interminable perpetuation of this silver light catching trunks contrasting with the deep shades on the green & fern below.

I am at Stavrõ¹ ― where a perlite Xωριάτης² shewed me to the Topos where ὃλοι Ἃγγλοι³ were wont to go ―: & no lovelier view can be seen ― so much so that I rank it first of all the distant Corfu views ― as regards the seeing all & everything. At 7 Therapeia, with a circle of very well kept in order boys ― I sate down to draw, ― & afterwards a 2^nd & 3^rd view ― so that it was one before I left off ― 6 hours of it.

Then we went to a Bottega,⁴ & had some capital Eggs & bread & cheese & wine: good people ― staring constantly. “Φυσικὰ”⁵ saith G. ― There were some extremely handsome women ― παιδιὰ!⁶

At 2 we came down ― & walked slowly, with interludes of Bertoldino⁷ & other matters.

Home by sunset ― this place is too damp to be out afterwards.

A toughy fowl, (to G.’s dismay,) & new potatoes ― were the dinner: also vile wine. ― whereby indignation & sleeplessness.

Bed by 8.45.

“Out of the day & night” &c.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. Stavros (Σταυρού). [↩]
2. Peasant (NB). [↩]
3. The place (topos) where “all Englishmen” (NB) were wont to go. [↩]
4. “Shop,” in Italian. [↩]
5. Of course (NB). [↩]
6. Children (NB). [↩]
7. A reference to the Italian comic tales of Bertoldo, the sharp-witted farmer, and Bertoldino, his no less cunning son, popularized by Giulio Cesare Croce (1550-1609) in Le sottilissime astuzie di Bertoldo, and Le piacevoli e ridicolose semplicità di Bertoldino, figlio del già astute Bertoldo. The stories are among the best-known grotesque, and at times nonsensical ones in Italian literature. [↩]

This morning’s entry was the last to be e-mailed; all those who subscribed to receive e-mail notifications of new posts should have received an invitation to join the new blog at leardiaries.wordpress.com. If you have not, please go there and join. I will keep posting entries here only until 12 May, Lear’s 200th birthday.