Sunday, 21 March 1858
Rose at sunlight: breakfast with Mr. Jesse at 7 & off with G. ― 4 donkeys ― at 7½. At a gallop to the Ferry ― passing all the exceeding beauty of the place & costume much too fast for my taste. Row boat, over to Ghizeh. How I remember my first visit with Cross! Ghizeh market, ― indescribably crowded ― after which the stately palm wood, & then the incomparable bright green & yellow plain=fields & their groups of cattle ― camels, &c. &c. &c. Then the village of Mr. North’s picture, ― & the last village about 10 or so ― when the usual odious rabble began to follow us. ― My companion, a grim, odd, well-read, “statistical” unpoetic animal ― yet with much curious quality: in person between […] & John Lear ― talking with the Arab boys endlessly. At the Sphinx I drew a little, but then pestering boys annoyed me. Why don’t you go & fight the Russians ―? ― said Mr. Jesse “Why you no go fight the Indians?” was the reply. We went to lunch near the North entrance & had plenty of food. Then we visited the wondrous door; & then walked to the other pyramid; & about 2 I came to the Sycamore alone with G. & drew again. Mr. ―― soon came ― & sate apart with the boys. ― I was glad to get away at 2¾ ― & find Giorgio the best companion after all. The road homeward was full of loveliness, & being in an amiable fit I was not very cross, tho’ my stilty philosopher bored me a little. We were at the Hotel by 6 or 6½.
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]