Rose as usual ― gnats roused ― at 6. Packed once more, for Jerusalem. Walked a little, & at 8 went to breakfast but it was so bad I could not take anything ― nor could Mr. Marshall ― nor another. ― I went out to Zeck’s, & got a good breakfast for a shilling. Then went to Briggs’s, & drew 20£: a queer mistake of the elder clerk ― who gave me 15 instead of 19£. Then took 2 places for Jaffa ― got a berth in Ladies cabins, & one 2nd class for George. All others taken ― vessel very full. Returned to Hotel. Fuss with the Saleem Dragoman ― who wanted 16/-. I gave him 12/-. Then the bill of the Hotel ― 3£ ― & a lot of odd shillings. ― Later a talk with Mr. Abiasis ― the “Israelite” ― & his [pairents] ― & the Queen of England &c. &c. &c. He says there is  a regular prayer for her among the Jews here, her example has saved so many lives &c. ― Then lunched with Calvert, a good kind man ― & some Americans ― who are going to Jaffa. That place seems very unsettled yet about the last affair. About 2½ came away with Giorgio, on an ass ― with my own night roba, to the port, where those Arab brutes seized on the things & thrust them into a boat, out of which I took all & hired another. At the steamer, “L’Imperatrice” ― found mine a central upper berth: it might be better or worse. But the ship is not large, & it is sailed off for Turks & infidels: & the passengers, already numerous, are apparently werry mixed ― Jews, Germans, &c. &c. &c. ― Having sent G. back for the roba, it was some time ― nearly 4 ― before he returned ― meanwhile heaps of Turks, Armeni, Arabs, & other birds came in with their carpets ― to the railed off portion. Some of the Styrian Pellegrini were a sight: 2 very like Irish of the extreme sort: ― one ― a most filthy man, who sat shoeless & stockingless ― with a square head &c. squirteth. Most were Germans. Dinner was at 4½. Crowded ― & not pleasant, & I gladly got away. Walked & smoked afterwards with G. & talked to a Papas ― who had been 6 years ἐις τὸ Ἄγιον Ὄρος.1 At 8½ there was tea ― but the odour was great. I do not know how the night is to be passed! ― Hopes of the next room are gone, eine Englanderinn ist da.2 ― While I write this, lots of these overgrown burly priests talk horrible Italian, & vociferous dandruff, afflicting to hear. 2 Russians in their own tongue; others in all kind of lingoes.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

  1. “On the Holy Mountain.” [↩]
  2. German, “an Englishwoman is there.” With many thanks to Helen Schinske, who also notes that “modern German would have only one N on the end. Thackeray has ‘Englanderinn’ in Vanity Fair” (Chapter LXV). [↩]