Monday, 29 March 1858
Rose at 6 ― headacheless, & feeling better. Wrote a good deal to Ann. At 8, Mahomed came, & I paid him for the Jaffa journey £2.2.0 owing him a dollar still ― & thinking it moderate ― 9 ― breakfast ― Macan ― Regd. Barnes ― &c. &c. Very pleasant. Giacomo the Dragoman did not come ― & I forebode some backing out on his part. At 11 went to Mr. Finn’s ― he was pleasant enough. Scene of an idiotic Englishman ― left here ― no one knows how ― painful enough. ― Sheik of Hebron ― & arrangement to go to Petra. ― Return home ―. At 1, Giacomo came, & after much palaver ― asks 26£ a month & food ― so I dismiss him & Petra together. Lunch. At 2, Barnes, Turner, I ― & Giorgio go out. Military Commander’s house ― lovely view of great Mosque & gardens. Afterwards we went to the walls & climbed about: then to Absalom’s tomb, where I drew a little, & they went home. G. & I went to the view on the Jericho road, ― beautiful, but less so than I had thought: afterwards, we went down the valley by the tombs to below Siloam, & the fountain, & then up to the hill of Evil Counsel ― whence to Nebby Daoud & the Zion Gate ― where were horrible leprous women. Dead horse. ― Jaffa Gate. Dr. McGowan in a coachman’s coat.*
Dinner, the usual party. Gibbs, Barnes, Turner, Lord Dunglass ― Sykes, McAnn. ― Afterwards ― as I came up the stairs, how glorious was the full moon of blessed Israel ― & how beautiful the dim pale film of Moab! ― the round domes of the city & a thousand other glorious quietudes recalling older days. ― Yet time goes by, & I do nothing.
Irritable & wakeful. X15
* (People had come in who report Petra to be unenterable ― so, once for all ― give up the idea of getting there.)