Church of the Holy Sepulchre (Wilson et al. 1881, I.16)

Rose at sunrise, notwithstanding I felt unwell. ― At 7 went with G. to the Holy Sepulchre Church. ― In the days of old, before one had seen so much costume ― screechingly wonderful things had all these strange figures & dresses been! ― Of every nation almost ― & what beauty of effect in the church! ―――― Returning, I split all my things in two ― for the journey to the Dead Sea, if it ever came to pass. Breakfast ― & talk with Barnes, Gibbs, & Turner about the journey beyond the Jordan. ― Mr. Finn called, & begged 2 Englishmen to go to see some documents opened, so I was obliged to go for one. Solemnity of witnessing 2 notes opened: ― translation by Mr. Finn ― Mr. Ffoulkes.― (who asked if I knew Bowen.) Returned, & once more talked to Turner, & resolved to try to get Mahmoud Ghizaura. Lunch. ― About 2 ― went out with Giorgio, by the Jaffa Gate, to Scopas ― & round those heights ―: the views of the Dead Sea & Jordan are most curious & sublime. ― Nearer the Mt. of Olives is a better view ― & so I drew on ― bits & wonderings, till near sunset, when we crossed the valley & ascended to St. Stephen’s Gate ― & up the narrow streets home. ― Had dinner ― Gibbs & Macãn: ― a good deal of agreeable talk. ― Afterwards, Ghizaura came, & no end of talk about the journey. He is gone now to bring one or 2 new Dragomans: ― “We have had enough of Arabs, & of Syrians, we.” After I had got to bed, M. returned with 2 other blackies ― & as far as I can see, I seem to be about to settle with one at 30/- a day.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]