Sunday, 28 November 1858
Weather far less cold, & almost pleasant. Wrote to Ann while S.W.C. went to Church. Mem: Hotel du Rhin is uncomfortable. ― After 1 C. & I walked to Banlieu de Sebastopol, & to new Halles ―: surely nothing in city architecture was ever finer than is Paris now. At 2 C. left me, & I went on to Nôtre Dame, the Morgue ― (no one in it,) & then left bank of the Seine ― through the Champs Elysées, & to the A. de l’Étoile ― returning by dusk & in rain to the Hotel. Thence S.C. & I went to the Trois Frêres Provençales ― & dined well. Cab home, & at 7 we came to the Midi rail: at 8 started. ―
A very ugly woman, & a roaring baby & nurse, & a militaire our companions. At first, along of the child’s screams, we anticipated a night of terror, but the enfant did us great good, as after frightening all people away ― was itself silent: so we slept. ― After midnight 2 people rushingly invaded us ― one, a lady ― drew a crinoline all ‘athwart’ the carriage, ― but finding it intractable, left us.
2 Americans were our next lot, the baby waking up at intervals & conducting herself with great propriety.
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]