Thursday, 17 May 1860
Rose at daylight ― ――――― … all very lovely & bright. G. & I set off at 6: along the road: ― I, drawing from time to time, anxious to secure mountains. It is not possible to imagine any more “Italian” hours, & scenes, than these. All the women going to mass ― quiet & respectable: the soft=loud bells sounding over the clear calmness, ― the endless brightness of foliage, brusque original independent fig, ― dependent vine, ― tremulous olive. Drew incessantly ― the mountains being ωσὰν1 glass. It became hot, but we went on. One snake. Υπομονητικος2 was quiet & good. ― On, by 12 to the rocks beyond of Porto Grazie, where I finished my yesterday sketch, & then we went to a sort of Osteria near the shore. Στραβὸς3 was the eye of the landlady: στραβὰ, all the ὄγματα of the children. Here we staid till 2 ― with a litrε of wine, & the lunch of the Inn. And it must be said, G. is in these cases always really a good companion: ― he speaks little by nature, ― but never says anything foolish, complimentary, or ill-natured. ― On going,, I pocketed all the change, ― but the good-natured landlady only seemed vexed that I should be annoyed. Nicer people than these, ― where? At 2¼ we began to move homeward, but, by the Chesnut trees of Porto Fezzano, we thought phit to sit down, & finially [sic] to fall asleep: nor did we move till 4. The sailors, & many people passing were “allegria,” ― & ever a pleasure to see so many merry good folk. ― Afterwards we wandered on: some abstract fishing took G.’s attention, & I drew a spot like Ἀνάλυψις in Corfu. Ὀλίγον Ὀλίγον, we came to Fezzano, Marolla,4 & S. Vito, ― & so into the Hotel. ――― Cavalry passing officers ― & an “old Admiral” but neither appeared. ―
Dinner bad. ――
επαναζασις5 to Naples. ―
Bright, & breezy lovely day.
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]