Saturday, 13 July 1861
Pretty clear. Off by 5 in carriage to Avenza. ― Very dusty roads: olives & vines: cattle with Thessalian wheeled carts: ducks: & multitudinous calves seen a staple of Carrara ― besides Marble, which breaks out in vases, busts ― steps, window edges & ledges & all kinds of way. ― At Avenza drew a big Machicolated tower till 8. A very deady nasty slow village: yet the people were quiet & well bred, & nobody begged. ― Returning, went up to a villa, but drew not.
Back at 8.30, & write this at 9, hoping to be at La Spezia tomorrow. Beyond Lerici, Mt. Blanc seems my great point, whether from Val d’Aosta, Chamouni, or above Geneva. And I somewhat think of going to Genoa by road, in order to draw the Rapallo & [Recco]1 views.
Slept, & finished Vol. 1 of Tom Burke. I wish there were 20. Dined at 12 ― though literally I could eat nothing. At 3.15 came away with G. leaving the things with Andrea, & directions to be at the Consulate at 5. Meanwhile clouds came, & I made a baddish mess of my 2nd Carrara drawing. At 5 ― no carriage; yet we were told it had gone on, so we walked, & a mile on found the silly Andrea, who had fancied he was to go till he saw us. ―
Passed Lavenza, & by straight olive vine festooned roads ― till a sharp shower came on, ― the pretties[t] country, with village or town crowned hills, & the Spezia range beyond. Avenue before reaching Sarzana: decent [rain] walk in town. Supper at 8: beer bad. ―
The chipping & hammering of Carrara is a bore. ―
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]
- Blotted. [↩]