Wednesday, 18 May 1859
Before midnight the punchy Colonel go out, at Dijon, & thence we all 3 slept as we might, Victor on the ground. At 4 or 5 we all woke & began to be merry, tho’ the morning was gray & damp, & the endless poplar trees not lovely. I cannot remember any livelier or less painful long rail=journey. By 6.30 we were at Paris: ― Brocchi & the Maharajah, hawks & all. ― Very little time elapsed before we got out all the luggage, & in a little omnibus, set off for the Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest, ― Charmside good-naturedly trying all his best to get me off to Dieppes, whence he said I could perhaps get to Newhaven tonight. And here, Charmside & Victor Marshall left me, & once more I am alone.
Rail, at 8 ― till 11 ― Rouen ― & 1 Dieppe: ― but alas! the Newhaven boat was off at 10½ before , so I had to [Compose] myself to sleep here tonight. After washing, & some Coffee ― I set out at 2.30 ― [gr.]: & bye & bye met with a youth who had come in the same train. He had been 3 years in Rome & was a student in the English College there. He, as everyone else, seemed to have been pleased with H.R.H. the P. of W. who visited the English, Scotch, & Irish R.C. Colleges ― very rightly. We 2 walked to above the Castle, & onto other heights, whence the view was really lovely, & I had no idea Dieppe was so pretty a place. ― All the green tufty fruitful Normandy has been a pleasure to me. ― Returning to the town we saw same of the ivory carvings &c., & then the Cathedral, wh. is very fine. ― Came to the Hotel Victoria to write this at 4. Rainy & dull weather, but, far better so than windy. A table=d’hôte, at which there was more pleasing than otherwise ― but, it rained afterwards, & I knew not what to do. So I went to the Cathedral, & sat out all the Vespers with real pleasure ― for, no one shall make me think there is no real & good piety in this people. ― The music too was quite sweet. ― Back to the Hotel, & semi=supped; converse, διὰ Vandevelde & other subjects, with 2 individdler
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]
“Punchy Colonel”! If a writer today, reconstructing the 1860s, used “punchy” a half-dozen fusspots would accuse him of anachronism. Of course the word didn’t mean the same to Lear as to Cassius Clay, but still it had seen the light of day. Lear’s vocabulary in these writings to himself is often surprising and richer than when he went through his process of
“writing up” notes to produce books.