Tuesday, 26 November 1861
Cold, perfectly bright. & how beautiful!
Breakfast. ―― After wh. ― went to Παραμυθίοτι ― & by degrees unpacked a lot with George: ― only the glass of the long Corfu picture, & one of the Lamp Glasses ― were broken. ― Count Henckel called ― but I suppose I shall not see him much more ― vû, my application. ― At 1.30 walked out ― all by Alipù ― τὰ σκηλιὰ μ’εμποδίζοντας,1 ― & so by the happy valley to the Bridge ― (near which I met ―― I suppose M.me Curcumelli & her daughters, very pretty girls anyhow,) & so on by those most amazing Olives to Afra & Curcumelli ― close to which I came on Curcumelli himself. He was not cordial, & barely civil ― & not to be wondered at is that. ‘Gave 3 fingers ― & said only, when I observed I had seen some Ladies & thought them his but could not see ―― “con tanti grand’occhiali?”2 ―― After which I walked [immer],3 & quickly: O! those olive groves! ― By Govino ― & so to the upper Potamò road, & to Ποταμὸ ― where I always find the peasants so pleasant. & then by 5.30 to the Hotel. ― Letters from Lord Clermont, 2 from the dear little Fairbairns ― & from dear Daddy Hunt. ― & Ellen. ― dined at the Hotel. The Violent Graham Tory: ― & 3 or 4 juvenile officers: one a nice fellow.
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]
Monday, 25 November 1861
Rose before 7.
Sent letters to
W.N.
W.J.N.
& F.L.
J. Edwards
Miss Goldsmid
T. Cooper
& P
From 9 to 11 ― at Dogana, where there was no difficulty about boxes, [Genettà] ― very civil: ― (the other Genentà is in “Queensland.” ― So anything was brought to Casa Παραμυθίοτι), ― & George had to work to it. ― ――― At 12½ called on Barrs, ― & Mrs. Le Mesurier ― most pretty woman. ――
At 1.30 with Count Henckel &c., & I went in old Carter’s carriage to Gastouri, ― & there we from the carriage descended down. ― All the walk by the cliff & gardens! ― Wind too high at the Lake for one to pass over, so I walked round, meeting Sir C. Sargent & Woolff & walking back to Corfu with them. Their stories of the Greeks ― dirt &c. ―
Saw Herbert at the Taylors. ― Dined at the Hotel. A ― Graham, with 2 white dogs. Wonderful asinine Tory! ― spoke of the downfall of Austria ― & their reward & consolation being the fact of never having admitted Jews in their society. Railed at Gladstone, Lord Derby, “Colonel” Storx, & everybody. A young [en]gineer at table ― turned out to be the son of Col. Luard who married Mrs. Briggs: a nice young fellow.
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]
Sunday, 24 November 1861
Very dull Scirroco. ― Wrote till Church time. Service shorter ― so best. C.’s sermon a bore. ― Afterwards ― to Oswald Middleton’s ― & lunched too heavily. Hard pouring rain. ― Called at 3.30 ― on Count Henckel ― who expires of dullness. ― At 4 walked to One Gun battery solo. ― Dark ― warm ― damp ―: depressed in spirits.
Dined alone ―― & wrote till 9 or 10.
X7
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]
Saturday, 23 November 1861
Fine, but at times cloudy. Rose before 7 ― & wrote out that immense Letter to W.J.N. Breakfast & afterwards to Taylor’s, & Bollands: then to Παραμυθιδε, where I concluded my patto1 ― 5£ a month. Arranged with Giorgio that Χριζὸς is to make various things. ― Went to Citadel with Count Henckel, & with O. Middleton & Capt. Carr to top of Citadel. …… Wrote.
At 3 ― with Count H. to Wolff’s ― & so with them, potius aper, to One gun, whence H.W. & I walked by the olives & the hills by the Race Course home. ― “Walked & talked” with Woolff afterwards ― whereby it seems the aged W. is on bad terms with the young W. ――― Dressing for dinner, Bolland came in; ― in a fuss: ― he is not to get in to his new home till Wednesday, so offers to go with Miss B. in a yacht if I can’t stay till then ― wh. of course I do, as the poor lady has no fault or option. ― So I go at 6.30 to Longhmans ― only the family, save a nephew of Prevesa Saunders. ― friendly & pleasant all, ― but Mrs. L. is dreamier, & the 2 young ladies are not so nice as their sister. Afterwards ― sang ― but what could I do?
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]
- Contract. [↩]
Friday, 22 November 1861
Rose at 7. What a sunrise! ―― Wrote till 8.30 ― & after breakfast ― A long advice letter to Willie Nevill ― rough copy. ― Count Henckel called: ― I on Col. Bruce. ― umph. ― (saw “Kirkwall.” ―) on Mrs. Herbert, Mrs. Ragnanean, & poor old Countess Valsimachi. ― Then to the Hotel by 1. ― A great row in the Hotel between runaway drunken Sailors, & Marines sent to fetch them; ― a regular fight ― swords &c. ― & altogether a scandal. ―
At 1.30 with Count George Henckel ― by Manducchio, to Potamò ― & then little Ἀγίου Πανταλαίμονα1 above.
Graf Henckel is a delightful fellow. He has been twice married ― the 2nd time to his “deceased wife’s sister.” Home by 5. Dressed: a bore. At 7 ― Palace.
How strange all this Palace life! ― And how awfully a bore! ―――― Where after was some piano cum whistling. ―
Away by 9.30. ――― ――――
Δὲν λέγωμεν τίποτες.2
X6
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]
Thursday, 21 November 1861
If possible, clearer & lovelier all day, than ever before. It certainly is a wonderfully beautiful place.
Rose at 6. At 7½ went to Bollands ― & fixed to take those Line Wall rooms, the expense of the Kastrades house is less ― but it would involve keeping another servant ― as being so far off. ―
Various calls ― Longhmans, Count Henckel, Paramythide, ― & Lady Buller, who looks very ill I think. ― After 2 ― I walked to Mandruchio, ― & back by Casa Landoni, crossing over to the S. Decca Road. The glory of colour! ― the grass-goats, & everything else!
At 6.30 ― dined at the kindly Boyds ―― only Col. Bruce ― H.A. Bruce’s brother there. Col. B. is absurdly like H.J.B. in voice & look ― but not the same otherwise.
Dinner nice & pleasant; after, singing. ―
Charley Boyd: ― a nice clear little chap, ― & much improved.
Talk with Fielding Boyd & Mrs. B. ―
Gorilla to wit. ―
X
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]
Wednesday, 20 November 1861
Bright & clear ― North wind, & perfection of beauty.
Rose at 7. At 9 breakfast. ― To Taylors ― & to the Palace, answering invitation to dine on Friday. At Bollands, I hear no answer, but returning, see Bolland himself who says I can have the house but that he cannot go out for a fortnight. Horrid bore. Called at the Generals, ― on Middleton, ― Creykes, Longhmans, & Woolffs. At 2 walk out with Count Henckel, & see a small house at Kastrades. ― Shall I take it or not?
Called on Le Mesurier also, ― but they are not leaving their house. ―
Walk with Count H. to One Gun by gardens ― most glorious colour & scenes! ―
Dined alone. ―
Invitations from Lady Duller, & Middleton,
No, to both.
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]
Tuesday, 19 November 1861
I woke at 4 ― as the anchor was thrown down opposite Paramythide’s house ― in Corfû harbour. The steam ― or pumps ― “chi so?”1 ― seemed to say,
Dŏ nŏt fŏrgēt
Dŏ nŏt fŏrgēt
Dŏ nŏt fŏrgēt ― interminably, ― & I could but (Whittington like) seal the [fang], as to dearest Ann, ˇ[& the recollection of her care of me,] & to the necessity & good of remembering that there is a superior power who guides & rules all, & to whom gratitude is ever due ― be that guiding apparently painful or not. And that what we feel to be wrong in us ― tho’ we know it to have been []2 there by circumstance, yet have we to remedy as far as we can. ― ―― At 6.30 ― or 7 ― ashore, Giorgio, & also Spiro came to meet me, ― & went (after seeing another Hôtel,) to Royal Hotel, where I got 2 rooms: wash & breakfast. Taylor’s poi ― where was Boyd ― with whom walked. Search for Houses, with G.K. ― none. Later, heard that a family were going from Casa Paramythidi ― & went to see the rooms, finding Filippo ― (J.B.E.’s servant there.) ― & suppose it better to take them. Saw “Kirkwall” ― Graf Henkel called as I came back: then Woollf the successor to Bowen. ― The weather clouds: ― & I, having lunched, now prepare to go out.
Sent G. with a note to Mr. Bolland’s ― offering to take the rooms till January: & walked out with Graf Henkel φον Donnersmarck
(Turn to page November 7.)3
From page November 19.
To Καστράδες, ― & up towards Ascension. We stopped at the old Villa Cortazzi ― & walked into the Gardens. Gray & cloudy as the day was, yet the loveliness of that place was wondrous. ― then to Ἀνάλεψις, ― the old olives! & the village ― & the top of the hill! Graf George Henkel is a delightful & intelligent companion. As we came down, we met the old Priest, who stopped & talked. So we returned at 5.
Dined: a young Middy, & (I suppose) a surgeon: after 2 other Marine officers: επειτα, [].
Much amusement out of all, only one can’t write it down ― & if I could, isn’t there a Piano going close by me? But the essence of this Corfu society is the knowledge that it4 is constantly changing, ― that knowledge preventing any of its constituent parts doing otherwise than amusing itself without any reference to the rest.
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]
Monday, 18 November 1861
Wind always against us.
Ill, & suffering from head & nerves horribly. The company are all pleasant. The Captain also particularly so. But I could not join at meals at all. Towards 2 or 3 P.M. ― (when we ought to have been at Corfu ―) great wind began, & the good Europa went up & down assai:1 yet she never shipped seas, or “lateralizzava”2
Worse & worse at 4 ― & 5 & 6 ― & only at 7 did we see [Passon].
Then I [turned on] Bianca & all Chimara3 passed ghostly by at 10 & 11 ― & with a frightful storm of wind wh. we could not escape from. I have not been in a worse gale ― only the sea in that canale is ristretto. At 12 “utterly outworn” I lay down & slept.
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]
Sunday, 17 November 1861
Horrible night! Gray morning!
“Conveyed” myself on board, ―― & sate miserably. For 2 or 3 hours ― the sea was quiet enough for me to read A.P.S.’s Eastern Church1 ― & talk with Graf Henkel ― a most agreable fellow. ― But I could not eat or sleep ― & so was a la mort.
Evening came ― & then I went to bed, & lay all night long wide awake till 5 A.M. ― wretched, but not so very ill as the previous night.
We were outside [Lessum] & Nissa at 3 or 4 P.M.
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]
- Arthur Penrhyn Stanley’s Lectures on the History of the Eastern Church (1861). [↩]