Edward Lear's Diaries

Very fine & pleasant all through.

But I got little or no sleep, ― at least until 3.30: partly fleas ― partly noises. ― However, at 5.20 ― rose ― & G. had a regular breakfast by 6: & at 6.40 we were off ― Spiro Assoniti preceding as guide. Damp & low grounds ― olive woods with gt. Foots but meager arms, patches of green, ― & myrtle & prunum ˇ[cistus], & passed-away Asphodel. ― There were semi-dry ditches too & a tortoise or 2. Land & water. We went near Zigonò ― a Χαλασμειον Χωρι,¹ & by 8 reached S. Mattià ― a finely placed village. The Head Police received Burr’s letter joyfully & gave a peasant to guide me, ― I decided first, ― to Pantoκρατώρα, ― a monastery high up. A very pretty & hot pull!― & welcome was a cup of coffee & some rakhi:² ― after which I drew on a higher front still, ― the view of Lefkimo, Albanian, & other ‘islands’ ― very beautiful: & opposite ― Fares & St. Angelo &c. We got down to S. Mattià at 12 ― & then had eggs & beans at the []: ― & at 1.30 [sit solo] again. The scenery is very beautiful=broken rox ― & superb olives: & so round the S. Mattià mountain, to Goudiki,³ or Palaιόκαστρο ― a Castle like Bodin or any 12^th century gray ivied walls ― but with immense olives about it. I drew on a hill till 3.30 ― the long plain & sea forming a beautiful scene, ― but the vast olives are for studies not sketches ― & I grew disgusted. ― We returned by another route, to the δημοσιαν⁴ road near Braganιότιca,⁵ ― & about a mile from Strongili I sent forth the S. Mattià Guide with 2/6 ― having given him his dinner also. Lord! [how]⁶ he talked! ― G.’s silent nature is no end of blessing. ― At “home” by 5.

& at 7.20 am about to dine.

Which the γεῦμα⁷ was surprising ― curry & Ps. G.’s assiduity is untiring.

Bed at 8.45.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. Ruined village (NB). Nina adds about Ζυγονό or Ζγονός: “This is actually quite interesting: It was a medieval village that was abandoned in the mid 18th/early 19th century, and there are many legends (of the folk-gothic horror kind) as to why — something about a village priest who became a vampire and infected the peasants with a fatal illness in connection to a feud between two rich families. There is no consensus about the real reason, it could be in fact some epidemic.” [↩]
2. Raki is a Turkish unsweetened, anise-flavored hard alcoholic drink that is popular in Turkey, Greece, Albania, Serbia, Macedonia, and other Balkan countries as an apéritif. [↩]
3. This should be Gardikiou, Choris Onoma, Agios Matthaios, in Corfu. [↩]
4. Highway (NB). [↩]
5. Nina suggests this is Vragkaniotika. [↩]
6. Blotted. [↩]
7. Dinner (NB). [↩]

Cloudy early ― after 8 fine: ― after 2 ― cloudy again.

Rose at 5 ― & “packed.” ― Breakfast at 6.30. ― Set off μοναχὸς¹ ― leaving notes at Bridge’s & papers at the Sargents’ ―― & going down to Καστράδες, where I “conferred” 2 hats on Nicolo & poor little Καραλάμμπι ― who I wish were stronger. Good old Βαύλια Κοκάλι: 65. ―

I walked slowly up to Sta. Decca, & drew a bit: & at 1, waited for G. whom I saw coming up with the Car: & at 1.30, had some Eggs ― at the ξειοδουχεῖον² outside Sta. Decca: during which facts, M. Grasset, & 3 French gentlemen ― all fresh from Mauritius, came up. One of them knows Cockburn intimately. ―

At 2.30 ― walked on ― some of the most beautiful views of Corfu, & under the most beautiful phases of light & shade being “to be seen.” ― After the turning of Stavρὸ, there were some novel & fine views of S. Mattià & other places ― but at the 10^th mile from Corfu, the land grew weary & wildinessy, & at the 12 mile, where the car stopped & we were told that the few dirty ruined houses above, was Strongilì³ ― horror arose. ―

There was howbeit no help ― so I had the things all placed in the “Casino Μαρκορὰν.” ― but it was deadly gloomy ― the more that it was heavy-cloudy ― & began to rain. From 4.30 to 6 ― I wandered, with Cav. Marcoran’s man ― he is a vy. dirty man, ―― & finally drew a pretty nook of palms, olive, & cypress: ― for there is really nothing to call for general drawing.

Came up at 6.30 ― & at 7 had a good dinner of cold lamb & pease. ―

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. Alone (NB). [↩]
2. Hotel (NB). [↩]
3. Strogyli (Στρογγυλή). [↩]

Change to North wind: (mist, & a little rain at 6 or 7.)

Headache. Cross ― dawdled ― Taylor’s men not coming.

At 12 ― they came ― they took away my 2 large cases. ― Di questo, in poi,¹ I don’t mean to fret about them: ― our vily occupation being gone for the present. ―

Coloured a Palaiokastritza sketch: & at 1.30 went out, intending to go to Mrs. Woolffs, but met her & Eu. K. driving in. So I promised to go later, ― & came back ― & bought camphor, medicine &c. Then at 2.30 returned ― but they had not come back ― so I lunched with the 2 children & maids ― not uncomfortiously. ――At 4 ― they came back, but Eu. K. had a bad cold. Mrs. W. is very clever.

Kandoria called, ― “a wealthy” man.

Storm of rain & thunder.

Staid till 5.30. Then home ― buying Salomon’s poems.

Dined at 7.15. ―

Penned out till 10.

X1

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. He probably means, “from now on.” [↩]

Rayther hotter ― but fine all day.

Riz at 5.

O criky bore! state of packing 16 cases of pictures in a big case ― till 9 ― with the ‘Zincaro’¹ of 1847, George, & others. ―― Called at Taylor’s ― & returned at 9.30.

Breakfast. ― The big package not “fixed” till 12 & Taylor’s men, not finding it ready, “abandoned” it. Post, brought, 2 papers, ― & a letter (a kind & nice note,) from Majr. Reynolds ― buying my 35£ Corfu. Packed & arranged drawings, & by 3 or 4 ― made up a 2^nd case, & again went to Taylor’s. Where I saw Sir C. Sargent, going to Athens in the ‘Queen’, ― & read the last horrid battle news of America. ―――― ― ― ―

Returned by 5 or 6 ― & then [started] the packing & zincking of the 2^nd case. ―

After which, at nearly 7, roamed road & so to the St. George ― where I dined; not at all ill. ―

Came home, & finding G. out, lighted my 2 Lamps: whereby he of course instantly came in. It is an observable fact, how that man everlastingly works & never complains. ―

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. “Zingaro,” gypsy. [↩]

Fine, but misty early.

Rose at 7.

Posted letters to C.F. ― Ellen, T. Cooper, Drummond & the Linnean.

Abschewed work ― as it is impossible to do anything while so unsettled.

Whereon ― resolving to send off these pictures & packed & screwed in ― with G.’s help ― all the morning ― 16 cases in all. ―

Nice letter from Sir S. Marcorãn: ― I am to go to his home at Strongili.

Went to Taylors ― at 3 or 4 ― to ask about L. Steamers’ ―: ― & arranged to pack the big case tomorrow.

At 4.30 or 5 ― went up to the Candóni Hill & drew till 5.50. Saw Mrs. Woolff, but she did not come back.

Home by 7.30, dined.

Penned out till 10.30[.]

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

Clear, fine, warm: mist early ― till 8 or 9.

Rose at 6.30. Not well.

Wrote to Julia Goldsmid at Constantinople.

Unable to write.

Post brought Saturday, & Wednesday Review, ― but no Evening Mails ― no letters ― whereat [wroth].

Worked a little off & on at S.F.G.’s Mt. Athos.

At 4.30 ― went up to Candoni Hill & made a small outline of Καλιάκοπουλος, & the hills. Below, the race course shone. ―

Saw M. Grasset ― & returned at 5.45 or 6 ― by the Parga path-way. Fell in with good Craven ― a kindly good man.

Dined at 7.30. ―

Penned out till 10.30.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

Same lovely weather ― but, bit north breeze.

Wrote to Ellen, C.F. T. Cooper, & Linnean Society.

G. Παραμιθιόττι called, & agreed that the De Veres can come here if they will do so for 4 months.

At 1.20 ― walked out to Mrs. Woolffs, whom I found alone, with Φιζζι. Lunched & sate talking till 4.

Home: dressed. ― George not in at 6.

Went, by Καστράδες ― up to Casino ― by 7.

The De Veres ― how pretty ― even beautiful Mrs. D.V. looks dressed in a bonnet: ― but a certain “Irish” ἀπανω πατώματα¹ prevails when she is presiding. ―

Hamilton appears to me a well=conditioned fellow.

Ἐτραγούδησα ἔπειτα.²

The D.Vs. do not come here, but are to live a yott.

Walked home with Major H.: nearly 12 when I got to the Παλατιον Παραμυθιοττι.³

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. Upstairs (NB). [↩]
2. Then I sang (NB). [↩]
3. Paramithiotti Palace. [↩]

Very clear & fine all day.

Rose at 5. At 6 with D. Οἰκονόμος, ― hottish walk, but slow, to Κυνοπιάστρες, ― where I was introduced to Sig. Villetta: ― it is curious to remember how I used to draw outside the house years ago! ― After sketching an outline of the pearl-blue mountains, I left ― tea ― [trout] & eggs ― was ready: & very pleasant, in the garden ― below the pergola. Then I wandered about seeking places I might draw in ― certainly Κυνοπιάστες is a lovely place. Then I called on a Mr. & Mrs. Μέξα, living in one of the Viletta Villas, & then at 12, with Villetta, & Μεξα, (οἰκονόμος went to sleep ―) we went in search of some pine trees ― those wh. of old F.L. & I used to walk to ― but we only discovered them after a long & hot & merry walk ― returning by 3 to Κυνοπιάστες[.]

Μέξα conversed sensibly about the “Protection[:]” he likes the English, but cannot understand their policy ― of wh. perhaps they have nil. At 4 we dined ― all 4 of us ― & very well. Οἰκονόμος came out strongly with the κρασῖ¹ ― as a Ζοροάστrian or what not. Once in a way [sic] this sort of thing is pleasant: & anyhow Villetta’s hospitality & kindness is extreme.

At 6.40 ― we ― Οἰκονομος & I slowly walked home, ― that very queer bird talking always ― & τόιον! & πόσουν!² Speaking of his aristocratic Epiroti mother’s severity ― he said she never entered into his plans ― “καὶ εὰν τὴν λέγω ὃτι μὲ χρειάζεται νὰ ἓχω γυναῖκα³ ―” she will not understand me, but rather if anything opposes me.” ―― very hot walk, & unnumerable fireflies.

At home about 9.

Letters from Ellen: ― & the Linnean Society, ― requesting to drop it the A.L.S. if I did not communicate science. ―

The fireflies. ―

X10

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. Wine (NB). [↩]
2. And how and how much! [↩]
3. And if I tell her that I need to have a woman (NB). [↩]

Particularly lovely clear all day.

Rose at 6.

Painted at Philæ ― (Grenfells) till 12, & “bettering” it “with time.”

Οἰκονόμος,¹ & Mrs. & 3 Miss Longhmans came.

After wh. I worked at the large Corfu till 2.30. At 3 ― went slowly to the Ἐπάνω Γεφύρι² near Potamo, & drew, surrounded by imps, till 6.20.

Returned home. Letter from De Vere, wishing to take Maude’s rooms, ― & I went to Παραμυθιόττι on purpose ―: but it seems they are to be let to the I. Consul.

Dined ― kid & pease.

Penned out till 10.

X9

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. The housekeeper (NB). [↩]
2. Upper Bridge (NB). [↩]

Quite fine.

Rose at 6. G. ― who came in at 5 ― says Karalambi is better, but has fever. ―

Worked at Grenfell’s Philæ ― not ill.

Mr. & Mrs. Barr, & Mr. & Mrs. Clark came, but Mrs. Longhman not ― which is a bore. ―

At 2 I lunched: fell asleep: woke ― & X8 so the tally will keep at the third day still, all I can do.

There are games below Condi Terrace, ― to see which I have sent out G. ― But I knew not what to do myself.

At 5 ― I walked out & observed jumpings &c. Then to the Kokali home, where I saw poor little pretty Καραλάμπι, who is better, but I doubt his ever living to be strong & well.

I saw ˇ[the] good old mother too ― who said ― “Δὲν εἶμαι τόσον καλὰ, διὰ γεράμματα”¹ ― a real good woman that.

Walked up to the Casino & back by 7.20.

Dined.

G. went to his house ― poor fellow.

I penned out till 11[.]

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. I am not that well because of old age (NB). [↩]