Edward Lear's Diaries

Very fine, warm, pleasant.

Rose at 6 ― medicine.

Post ― 4 papers ― to the 14^th & the Saturday: & 4 letters ― 2 from Julia G.: ― they had a bad passage to Syra, & stayed there a week: ― arriving at Athens ― they found Sir T. Wyse dying. ― From Fanny Coombe: & C. Cockburn on dear good W.F. Beadon’s death.

Worked at Grenfell’s Philæ, & got it back again to where it was. ―

Accounts ― &c. ―

At 12. called at Taylor’s & paid him 50£. Then on Mrs. Barr ― a nice pleasant woman. ― On Mrs. Clark, & on the Cravens: ― & on the Boyds ― (where was Count Savini.) Then back ―: ― & at 2.30 or 3 ― went to Ποταμῶ, & drew at Πανταλείμωνα till 6.20 or later.

Gave three pence to Dionýsios ― & returned by the industrious Maltese=cuppane=fields. But these places are too far, & it is now too hot for these walks. Τὶ να κάμομεν?¹

At 7.20 ― Dinner: & now G. has gone out to Καστράδες hearing that Καραλάμπι is not well again: I doubt their rearing that little one. Col. Bruce’s 2^nd Band is being audible & pleasant: but so is the big barking dog.

Penned out till 11.20 ― & G. is not come in: which makes me fear that little boy is worse.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. What can one do? (NB). [↩]

Fine, but hot, & alquanto¹ cloudy. X7

The female dog owled [sic] a good deal, but as George says ― “fa compassione”² ― so she was forgiven.

Rose at 4.30. ― & dressed: & packed. ― Breakfast at 6: ― & ― leaving G. to settle all ― set off walking.

Had it some extended distance, few views would be more fine than that looking to the Dukades & Lacones rox at early noon. ― I left the Paleoκαστρίτζα bays & rocks, & shrubs, with a kind of regret: absolute regrets there are none of, now a days. Walked on ― drawing at 3 places, ― & at 9.30 ― near Dukades, G. & the carro overtook me, & went on. ― At 11. I reached the Osteria of the 8½ mile, ― but it was full; so G. brought some wine & cold fowl to the shade of a Nollive tree & so I lunched ― a large dog [mazū]. ― Then they went on, & I slowly ― very: reveling in the heat of the day ― & the shadows of the olives & the grass & fern. ―― All along by Govino ― & the Potamo flats, & up by Condi’s houses, & then Manducchio, & so to “home” by 2.35.

Where, of course, I found the rooms in perfect order; but the post was closed ― & a good deal of bother ariz from the last [round] & firings of pistols at Easter.

Washed & dressed, & sate still: & wrote notes.

At 7.15. G. presented a dinner of roast lamb & pease ― worthy an old woman. A curiously active & patient fellow is G. Kokali.

Penned out till 10: ― G. is gone to his mounting ’ome. ―

10.30 ― Πρέπει νὰ ὑπάγωμεν ᾽ς  τὸ κρεββάτι[.]³ And so ends the Παλαιοκαστρίτζα “outing.”

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. Quite. [↩]
2. One feels pity for her. [↩]
3. We must go to bed (NB). [↩]

Fine, but not so serene.

Did not sleep well ― δὲν ἐκοιμήθην τόσον καλὰ, [οὓ] καλὰ καὶ δὲν ἐξεύρω τὸ διατὶ.¹ ―― Rose however at 5.40 ― & at 6.20 drew one more view of the Castel St. Angelo. ― Returned to breakfast at 8. After mooning about ― (boles all wrong,) drew a mule ― barrel=loaded, at the convent door: but biting fleas, & crowing cox disturbed. I have resolved to go home tomorrow ― for many reasons: want of money: a feeling of imprisonment; ― & having come to the end of one’s work here.

At 12.30 ― conversed with Dr. Roberts ― & drew on the beach, ― “shadowed caves” ― & then at 2 ― walked on, filling up other outlines to 2 miles distance, returning at 4 to draw the rock-scene ― wh. took me to 5.40 ― when I was “utterly outworn.” Παλαιοκαστρίτζα, beautiful as it is wearies me ― as only a mass of foreground after the first general views are taken: ― then it is so devoted to get swells, & so un=countrylike in its ways, though so untownlike in its position. ‘So I go.’ ― And leavin[g] Dukades & Lacones to other times. If indeed such times come ― for I truly weary of Corfû.

Towards Sunset, talk with Dr. R. Mrs. C. ― also with Mrs. L. ― who is clever & oddly=pleasant. Mrs. C. is fairy like & with many charms. I do not like to see her & any [D ] sitting on rox after sunset.

Meanwhile a placid female dog, having [brought out] 4 puppies, & they being destroyed ― she now roameth & howleth. ―― Καλόγερι² are then here, but after Sabbas & Athos ― how can they interest? ―――― Γευμάτισα³ ― on boiled fowl & agirades: ― & read Holy Land travels: I would fain see the East once more: just now ― ὃμως⁴ ― I am covered with fleas, & sad.

(See, Back ― over leaf ―19^th)⁵ X7

21^st. At 11 ― determined to go onto the farther rock, to get to wh. I have failed frequently, ― & set off in my stockings, ― G. ― pushing me up or preventing my slipping ― & so, in 20 minutes I got there ― but got little but the satisfaction of “persistence.”

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. I did not sleep that well, [not] good and I do not know why (NB). [↩]
2. Monks (NB). [↩]
3. I dined (NB). [↩]
4. However (NB). [↩]
5. The rest of this entry is found in the page for 19 April. [↩]

Wonderfully lovely all day.

Rose at 7. ― & breakfast at  8.30.

Sate by the open window ― & wrote to C. Fortescue ― or walked about the small platforming house gardens till 12. ― How glorious was that blue level of sea! & the Πρινάνι¹& salvia ― & the white butterflies ―――― a quiet of bygone days, which, tho’ I deprecate dwelling long on their memory ―― will be remembered sometimes.

― Abruzzi ―― & 1843. ― Do you ever think of me Donna ――――? I hope not. Yet your lot in those few bright days was brighter than it ever had been, & I fear ever could be.

And you ― of Cartella days? where are you & your babe ―? A dream world.

At 12 called at “the Convent.” Mrs. Creyke is unwell. Sate with Mrs. Lyell ― who is a nice good Englishwoman, μὲ φαίνεται.² Then drew ˇ[at] various points ― the “citadel buffeted [tempest]-crowned” “St. Angelo[.”] And at 4 ˇ[3.30] ―― drew till 6 ― at the Lakonas view.

At 6 Capt. C. & Mrs. Bridge, a nice good woman too, went ’ς τὴν πόιν. Καὶ ἐγὼ³ ― walked a bit on the road, below the stately rocks & proud olives ―― returning to dine at 7. G. provides a (melancholy) duck: ― but G. (who dined [by ] with the Ἠγούμενος⁴ today,) always does his best.

So now. ―: how still! how silent! ― even the bubble surf so far below is scarcely heard!

Παλαιοκαστρίτζα memories, if I live, will live with me.

Wrote to Ellen.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. Holm, or more probably kermes oaks (NB). [↩]
2. I think. [↩]
3. To the city. And I (NB). [↩]
4. Abbot, in Greek Orthodox monasteries (NB). [↩]

Quite fine all day long ― warm, ― but wind coldish.

Rose at 5.30. Θαυμαζω.¹

Cup of Coffee, & down to the bay, where I drew the Convent hill till 9: ― a wonderful parrot=glory of color!

Saw the 2 wives ― nice little women both.

Breakfast ― 10: ― & read Goldwin Smith’s Ireland² with pleasure. ― Afterwards ― drew variously ― & a large picnic party came below ― & Col. & Mrs. Wynne “called on me.[”] Afterwards, I on Mrs. Lyell & Mrs. Wynne: & thus the day was cut up.

However, from 1 o’clock I drew perpetually at 3 C. St. Angelo views ― & at 5 of Lacones. ― at 6 tired out, I walked a little, & returned to dine; & penned out till 9.30.

G. is cross ― but feeding on olives for a week must needs make a man so.

Somehow I am weary ― a weary. ―

Bed at 10.

X6

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. I marvel (NB). [↩]
2. Godwin Smith, Irish History and Irish Character. Oxford & London: J.H. and Jas. Parker, 1861. [↩]

Very lovely day ― N. wind.

Thank God ― slept well: the bugs being all kilt.

Rose at 6 ― & at 7 ― a cup of coffee ― & drew above & below ― till 9 ― or 9.30, when I came up to breakfast. The beauty of color & reflection in the Convent rocks & bay at early morn is [summat] wonderful. Somehow, I am constantly feeling how little I recollect of all these beauties ― or rather, how gray skies, bustle=life, & varieties ―― efface their reality=impression.

After breakfast ― drew again, & at 2 went to the bay ― drawing in color ― but failing frightfully.

Drew on in pencil till 5.30, when Creyke & Bridge & their wives passed me, ― & I walked on & met Mrs. C. & Mrs. B. ― with whom I walked up to the hill. The glory of [rose-thin] skies ―― tho’ one has had little enough of it. I am certain, whatever good I may get by “color from nature” I get more by pencil ― seeing my inability to struggle against physical painter=defects. ― Some very grand studies abound here. ―― Dinner at 7.15 ― a cold half fowl, rice, & potatoes ― & some “wine of the country” ― the bill of fare ― & very fair.

Penned out till 9.30. Bed[.]

Slept pretty well ― nay ― well.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

North wind ― rain at times in storms: fine & windy.

Rose just before 8. unwell & wretched.

Too windy ― & storms of rain ― to draw.

Called on Mrs. Lyell, Mrs. Creyke, & Mrs. Bridge.

At 12 settled to pen out for the day ― & did so ― lunching at 2 ― & at 4.30 walking out 2 miles & back. Very rough sea ― & bright effects.

Called again at the Convent at 6.20 ― & found Captns. Crayke & Bridge had come. Dined at 7.15.

Penned out.

High wind till 7 or 8 ―.

Bed at 9.30[.]

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

Finer, ― clearer ― & so all through.

The day was not done went [sic] I went to bed, ― for the new Frame bed was uninhabitable, ― & we had to put a table flap. This however was so hard that I got hardly any sleep all night, & could not rise till 7.

Drew Lacones ― outline, & then St. Angelo: ― when lo! 3 carts of furniture & a carriage, the last holding Mrs. Lyell Mrs. Bridge & Mrs. Creyke ― who have supposed they had taken these 2 cottages. Luckily the Convent rooms were empty, & I got them established there. Then, at 1, I drew the “shadowed caves” ― & 2 other views till 4 ― then 2 more small ― & at 5.45 came up again to the hill. The view is vastly grand & lovely at sunset ― & seems to me far more so than of olden days. The Lacones & other peasants are delightful in manner, but the small boys bore me ― “one farden.” ―― It is now 7 ―  ὥρα τοῦ γεύματος.¹

Dined: & penned out till 9.30. Then bed ― but alas! the frame bed borrowed from the Convent was buggious: ― so I had no sleep, & nearly went mad.

XXXX5

A fearful night.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. Dinner time (NB). [↩]

At 5 or 6 A.M. ― I had hope for finer weather ― but it became the same dark gray terrible gloomy scirocco. However, by 9.30 all was ready ― & at 10 I set off, leaving G. to follow. I went up to the Casa Candoni, & returned Ida Pfeiffer’s last travels,¹ wh. have immensely interested me.

― So on, by the busy fields below Ποταμῶ & through the town, & passed poor Διονύσιος. And to the road, which I shall never be able to draw & yet never enough admire. ― Then, at the Govino or Kondokali “Inn” I stopped ― at 11.30 ― & had one egg & some wine & water: the people were all civil & kindly as usual. George & the cart came up at 12.20 ― & we went on to the 9^th nick. & at the Grand Junction Hotel stopped to bait. Αὐγᾶ τεγεμισμένα² & garlicky sausage ― but really good wine was the order of the day. Osteria Life³ is always a delight to me ― I cannot quite tell why, except that it began from Roman days. ― Afterwards, at 2.30, I walked on alone, ― & at the 10^th nick drew ― soon joined by a Χωρικὸς,⁴ who talked no end, & insisted on walking on with me: he called Sir H. Storks ― ὁ πρώτος πολὺ κάλλιστος ἀρμοστής⁵ & said he had been to his place ― Μακράδε, ― where, later he asked me to come to a [Panaghia], this day week. Finally he said ― [“]άς ὑπάγωμεν [] στην Αγγλίαν:”⁶ ― & declared he would lean English directly. At the 12^th nick, the rock & olive scenery is immensely fine ― & perhaps not less so in such a day of clouds ―― but it was not easy to draw. ―

Bye & bye ― it was then 5.30 ― the double bay came, & the vast rocks of St. Angelo: ― & so on & on to below the Convent ― at 15½ miles ― a wondrous scene of calm sea & massive seaside promontory. ― Of course, found that G. had all the house very tolerably ready ― but he had broken my lampshade to my disgust ― it fell from the cart, where he had insisted on keeping it all day for security. ― At 8 ― cold mutton & a bottle of beer were refreshing, & later, coffee & a cigarette still more so.

G. was here 4 years with the Conyers, & says ― “Mi pare un sogno ’sta casa.”⁷

I said I was sorry I had been so angry last night, to which he replied. Non è niente Signor ― bisogna che ogni uomo fa così qualche volte.⁸

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. The Last Travels of Ida Pfeiffer: Inclusive of a Visit to Madagascar. London: Routledge, Warne, and Routledge, 1861. [↩]
2. Stuffed eggs (NB). [↩]
3. Inn life. [↩]
4. Peasant. [↩]
5. The first very good Commissioner (NB). [↩]
6. “Let us go [] to England.” The middle word, perhaps τιμά, does not make sense for Nina. [↩]
7. This house is like a dream to me. [↩]
8. That’s no problem, Sir ― everyone has to be like that now and then. [↩]

Thick, warm, gloomy scirocco.

Measured Canvasses, & ordered 18 frames of Dickenson.

Letter from C. Fortescue ― very kind: to whom wrote also.

Mrs. Woolff & the 2 Curcumellies came & Fizzy.

Major Peel came ― going away.

I misspent & idled away the afternoon ― [packing] at 7 &, being interrupted by Giorgio, was far too angry.

But this weather is responsible somewhat.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]