Edward Lear's Diaries

Riz at 4 ― one’s old ways ― “e’en in our ashes.”¹ ― drew mountains, (clear) for an hour: ― coffee: (always bad Sea,) & at 5½ off with G. a walking. Every promise of a fine day. The giro of the gulf is pretty, & the views of Spezzian streams. ― Bye & bye, a world of bog & slosh, ― & a nice woman, who, having passed it, cooked her feet & legs amazing. She recommended a “collo” ― & so, a lad came, ― who carried me over a pick-a-back, & G. afterwards Route along the shore ― & bye & bye, leaving it, thro’ gardens, & again, bits of sea-side. Thence, a long rise through a close olive & fig valley, & so sharp ascents ― ending in a lovely view of Lerici. ― Descent, (& the courtesy of the people it’s impossible to imagine;) ― & so to the High Street of S. Erenzio,² clean compared with southern towns in general. On the beach is the house of Byron & Shelley ― sad looking: but the views are very glorious. Thence by the rocks, & through a superb olive wood to Lerici, a large town. G. & I had some wine & eat our breakfast ― (we arrived at 9) in the Osteria of a very political female. [below: “Roma, città santa, popolo cornuto.”³ quo’ she.] All we observed in the town was pleasant & agreable ― such beautiful women & children! ― At 10 I began to walk back & draw ― & so it was 3 before I got to S. Erenzio, ― & 3½ before I had done the view above it. At 4½ bathed. By 6 it was a little raining, & we got to the mud marsh, where after a time a strong peasant came, to carry us over. But his foot striking on a stone, he stumbled, & nearly threw me: after a time we righted & came off all right. The peasants beyond were “deeply interested” by the scene, & when I waved my hat, all shouted with laughter. Rainbow, as last night: arrived at J. Hotel. Empty. Drank & ate. Communicative waiter. As pleasant a day as for years past.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. “Even in our ashes live their wonted fires,” a line from Thomas Gray’s Elegy Written in a Country Churchyard. [↩]
2. San Terenzio, a village near Lerici. [↩]
3. Rome, a holy city, a cuckolded people. [↩]

X5 Alack! ― Sultry & dim morning ― sunny. ― Did not like to tempt the silver wave, as the clouds were heavy. Wandered till 8, having risen at 6½. ― Breakfast. Saw a Genoa paper, whereby one is told that επαναζασις των Σικιλιων¹ is not snuffed out. ― Afterwards drew on the beach till 11 with G. & then walked up a mounting & began another view of Spezzia ― very beautiful: ― but it soon began to spit & piddle, & I gave it up θυμουμενος. ― Walked also up a nill to a red house with gardings ― having the same view, but including a bulldog of fierce manners. Came back, & drew from the window from 2 till 4. ― All this is assuredly highly disgusting. The cookery here is “werry fishy.” ― It seems a pity not to see Lerici anyhow. ― At 4½ ― I set out again to draw, but it was too black & rainable, ― so I went with G. by the seasidesad ― eastward, ― where there would be fine views of the Carrara mountains, had they been clear. ― Returned by 6 ― rainbow ― “ζωνα”? ― Dinner, the languid French couple, & the Gent. ― (lady unwell.) ― FOOD VILE. Gentleman agreeable, Indian ―: instructed & gentlemanlike. We talked a good deal ― Van De Velde &c. &c. If he was clear-headed he must have thought me otherwise. ― Talked afterwards with the Waiter about the 5 Terre. Pace up & down. ―

Found that G. had gone to bed at 8. ― His Albanian habits do not extinctuate ― & I don’t see how they should, but having done much for him, perhaps it would be better now to turn all one’s endeavours to settle him in Corfû.

Rose garden.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. Clearly meaning επανάσταση, i.e. “the Sicilian rebellion.” [↩]

Slept well. Rose at 5½.

As I expected ― clouds. But, Coffee had, we left at 6 ― in a boat, with one old man, a simple soul, who said “I am called really Francesco ― but no one uses my name; they call me Gallina, ― & I always reply to it” ― The lake=gulf was very lovely, but the wind rose, & a swell, which made me miserable ― so I was put on shore opposite P. Venere, & sent back the boat. Here I & G. walked along dangerous paths, & I drew till 11: ― when it rained, & all seemed dismal. Retiring to a hole in the rox ― we lunched; & when the rain ceased, came fourth, & went to P. Venere. (The firing from the fort & the Echoes were wonderful.) P.V. is very picturesque, ― its old blk & w. striped marble church &c. &c. ―: we also went up to the Fort, & about the streets, where the people caught the rain in pans, & spoke rapid dialext. ― Returning, by the road, rain always: beautiful views ― always like Corfu. School of marine youths. Polite & kindly people. ― Tho’ wet, a pleasant walk.

By 5 we were at S. Francesco, & soon in the town: a garden of roses was a pleasant discovery. Dined at 7, the 2 French folk only.

Illuminations afterwards, & short walk with G., & talk with Landlord.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

Uprose at sunrise. Beautiful entrance to Gulf of Spezia. Landlord of Villa d’Odessa ― on board. Got good room at his Hotel & washed & dressed.  ― Gulf very beautiful ― & very like Corfu prospects. At 8, set off with G. (or 8½) through the town & up the hills to S.M. of Marinasco. ― Incredible amiability & good manners of peasantry ― one & all! ― “I never saw such people”! ― Prolonged walk round all the hills, till we lost our way, & came down by bad paths about 3, towards the town.

Slept till nearly 6. ― θαυμα ζωμενος ειμαι.¹

There was a sort of small table d’hôte ― 2 French, & 2 Anglians: the lady of which latter was a fierce Protestant, & although acknowledging the excellence of the people of these parts, could not allow they were different from those of Rome in reality ― “both are in darkness, & the glorious message of gospel truth has not yet reached the poor creatures.” She waxed very eloquent, & I wished her anywhere. ―

In the evening G. & I walked along the Spiaggia² ― very pleasantly ― from 8 to 9. ― The day is lovely ― but there are signs of change. ―

48 years old!

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. Perhaps, “a miracle we are alive” (GT). [↩]
2. Beach. [↩]

Long task for those who wanted to get their luggage. Hotel Fêder: ― Col. Bowen. Walk with G. ˇ[in the city]. Thoughts of 1842 ―. Took places for Spezzia.

Dined at 4½ ― but the people are careless rather. At 7½ on board ― very small crowded steamer, & off at 8. Comedians, peasants ― friars. ― No sleep. ―

X4

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

Cloudy early. Walked & waked all night ― no mattress possible. Day-break at 4. ―

At Leghorn by 5½. ― Smashed a schooner’s bowsprit ― great fuss & battle about luggage. Got away by 7 being angry about boat & bother. ― (Young Waterton: ― one Underwood ― & little dog ― &c. &c. ―)

To the Aquila Nera ―: & to the Polui, &c. took tickets for Genoa. ˇ[Washed.] Lunch ― bright afternoon. ――

Slept till 2.

On board the [Canschipp] again: ― much greater crowd. ― Ogle, & his confessions.

No sleep. Arrived soon after 12 at Genoa.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

Slept very tolerabull. ― Overcast sky, wh. engendered fears. ――

Breakfast ― a rush of 56 Papalpartigiani from Marseilles, of which 22 were priests. One party, a raw English lad in care of a Priest, answered me ― “he could not like dirty bread, tablecloths &c.[”] ― “but you will be sure to do so” ― said his friend, ― [“]Holy Rome always ends by compelling the affections of her children.” ―

Much fuss to take passage tickets, & irresolution: at length took a 1st & 2nd place for myself & G. ― Walked with G. on the Ramparts, (till turned off ―) & about them, till tired. & at 2 went on board. Long crowding & waiting. The 2 “Jirmins & brothers,” ― Mr. & Mrs. Hall, she a friend of Eleanor [Bultress], he rector of [Daletell]: young Waterton: [Pugh] of Naples, & others. Long talk with Dr. Strange about Naples. Dinner at 6½ ˇ[or 7] ― pleasant. Sat next did little for the Community.

Sat next to Halls: ― Evening wore away by walking & waking. ―

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

Very lovely.

Rose early. Ετελειπα ολα πραγματα.¹ Called on P.W. ― on D. Sermoneta, & at 11 on Macbean, & drew out 300 scudi, leaving me over & above my debts. Then to the Storys ― & Knights, where I lunched & sate long with Isabella. Afterwards called on the B. Mathews. Τωρα ― εις μιαν ωραν, θα αφισω Ρωμην.² G. is very gloomy & glum, but I don’t know what to do about taking him on.

At 3¼ a ninterview with the astute brothers Spillmans ―  “in 4 siamo e poi un’altro il qual non conte ― consiacché è Gesuita. ―”³ who seem veering towards taking rooms, ― & by that time, the carriage was packed ― & the empty rooms left, & G. & I off “απο την Φυλακα.”⁴ G.’s spirits rose wizzibly, & after 2nd class tickets were taken, passports visæd, & luggage weighted, we were off by rail. Nothing could be more lovely than the green green green of the Campagna, & the bright hills, & river, & cattle & trees. Co-travellers rather noisy. At 6 Palo: ― & then the bright S. Severo Castle ― & at 7 the sloping C. Vecchia hills, & the end of the fytte of journey. Rolandi ― or Orlandi Hotel, & the same 2 rooms as a year ago. Dinner & Café warm: & 2 pleasant people, one English, the other the [Sa ] Weimar professor ― (Jena,) of whom they told me at the Sermonetas. ― We all 3 talked a good deal in various lingoes. ―

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. “And all things were away,” perhaps meaning that everything was ready for leaving Rome. [↩]
2. Now, in an hour, I shall leave Rome (GT). [↩]
3. We are four, and then another one, who does not count ― as he is a Jesuit ―. [↩]
4. From the prison (GT). [↩]

Third fine day this year. Packed ultimatiously all day… ―

Called on ˇ[poor] Coleman & others, wearied.

Dined at the Macbeans ― but it wasn’t pleasant. M. spoke sneeringly of A.T. ― Woolner, & all persons not Roman. He is, I fear, pretty much what C.K. says. However, Mrs. M. is assuredly a good & nice creature, & far beyond his desert I imagine.

I left ― λιγον θυμουμενος.¹

Half resolve to go to Genoa.

Letter from F.L.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

1. Little they remember (GT). [↩]

Very fine.

Went to Church: O foolish Burgon!

Afternoon, walked along ruin, & over M. Mario with G. ― beautiful view of Rome.

Dined at the Knights.

X3

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]