Warm, dull, scirocco: very disagreable. ―

G.’s lessons & to church: very few there.

Sermon of 42 minutes from that tiresome Mr. Burgon ― “the house of darkness” ― all about the Debble ―― this enthusiast warping always on positive spiritualities. Eve & what not, & the serpent ― & much artistic phrase ― sketch, draw, paint, picture ― outline ― & “that accursed Artist, Satan!” ― One gets too disgusted: walking over the Pincian with Col. Caldwell ― we had a jaw, agreeing thereon. At 2 Newton came ― very nice: I like him much, poor fellow: ― his opinions, good, & otherwise, of my pictures, were very welcome. Then came Jameson, with whom I walked to C. Cestius,1 & the burying ground, Wyatt’s grave, &c. &c. & M. Testaccio ― & through the Trastevere: called on Williams ― out. ― Corso full of guards & patrols: dull hot afternoon.

I went to the trattoria of the Belli Arti; ― hoping P.W. would be there ― but he was not: & such was the wine, & bad eating, & beggars ― that I came away “in a rage.” ― Rain. ― Edward Wilson, having “done Naples & Florence” ― came in & staid till near 11: he has an irritating mode of talk, ―quite unnecessary with my Bethell=denounced spirituality. ――

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

  1. The Pyramid of Caius Cestius, in Rome near the Porta San Paolo and the Protestant Cemetery. [↩]