Thursday, 4 July 1861
Same weather: perhaps a few clouds.
Rose ill ― but took an immense dose of Citrate, & at 7 ― operative ― & consequent resuscitation.
Penned out hard ― all yesterday’s work, ― till 12.
Dined.
Letters from C.F. ― F.L. ― & W.H.H. the last most delightful & beautiful, yet sad. The 2nd is going with Venables in a yacht, but, if not, thinks of joining me. But “I shall not be there.” AT ET & the boys are at Auvergne! ( O vere now in France is Auvergne?) ― C.F.’s letter is better than the last ― yet hurried. Lord Westbury, on being told that Sir W. Atherton would not like R. Palmer being put over his head ― said ― “I was not aware he had one!” ―――
Altogether, the letters & the physic have done me good. ― So I paid my bill ― & came off at 2.30. Long dusty road: 5 miles of Abeles. The valley of Serchio is rather pretty. At the 12th mile the “Borgo” & Maddalena bridge are very much so. At “Looker’s [Balves]”1 by 5. Hotel New York. Very tiny room. Paid vetturino 40 instead of 30 fr. ― supposing the 10fr. pieces were ˇ[5] fr. ditto. Disgust. ― Set off at 5.30 with G. along the road to the “villa.” ― Very vulgar place full of absurd people. ― We went up to the Bagni Caldi ― & the view is fine both ways: towards the Villa Bagni I am reminded of Calabria, of Bagaladi.2 We came back by the Church, (& saw Mrs. Stisted,) & came back by the bridge & the other side of the River. Had a very good supper, & feel much better. George ― (as I thought he would) has been rushing after the Vetturino ― but vainly.)
These valleys have much that is pretty in them ― particularly the Chesnut trees.
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]